I have two words: “what” and “happened.” It was almost two years ago now that I say Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first offering as creative director of Dior, at which time I was utterly enamored with her tulle, patchwork, and delicate floral designs. Unfortunately, I think that after two years, the Dior curse has caught up to the incredibly talented Miss Chiuri. I’m sorry to report that the illness, caused by a) putting out eight (yes, EIGHT) collections a year and b) not being Karl Lagerfeld struck quickly and mercilessly. Her lovely showing two months ago for the cruise line continued her promising turn as creative director for the storied maison, but this hideous collection reminded me why we need critical reviews. People get lazy if they can buy your love, which a @dietprada on instagram pointed out, ruined Vogue Runway’s review.
Look, not everything in the line was a bust, indeed some pieces were fine, but they were no where near pieces of art. They were more the type of thing you buy at J Crew than Dior.
I usually start off with the bad to get it out of the way and because it doesn’t dominate the review, but my god, the good is just going to be so brief that I might as well do it here. To be fair, there were many redeeming pieces in the collection, they just can’t make up for the champagne-colored bridesmaid party that began the show. (Dear Diet Prada, don’t come for me for using the comparison, I thought the same thing when I saw the show). So, first off, there was a lovely navy coat which had an interesting silhouette and seemed to be a modern interpretation of the iconic 50s Dior skirt suits. Indeed there were a few skirt suits in the show that seemed to draw from the same design and without fail are crowd pleasers. Another redeeming piece was the whimsical floral ball gown, the pattern of which I hope is used again in the future. I think it’s worth mentioning that another problem with the show was that it felt like Chiuri was relying on successful pieces of the past (not signature pieces, just her own, ballet dress style), which are charming with embroidery, but when plain, look like a dress to buy at Anthropologie. These are not couture; they may be lovely but are certainly plain.
Alright, now for the bad. First off, the disaster of sending bizarrely colored, uninspired, ball gowns down the runway. That would be bad enough style-wise, but some of the dresses and pieces appear to be fit improperly. I mean how did that happen? Who let these pieces down the runway? Truly, I don’t believe all of these dresses are ugly, but there is nothing couture about them.